Post by adrius on Mar 18, 2011 6:56:36 GMT -5
Money: aprx. 20$ if you already have Dap.
Time: 2-3 work sessions of a couple hours each.
Skill level: Moderate
I do not claim ownership over this design in any way shape or form. It is a design i have built upon based on things taught to me. There are slight differences in procedure, chronology, and materials used from how others make sandwich swords. I give anyone who wishes to permission to reproduce this tutorial at any time. with or without giving credit, as long as it is not for the purpose of profiting
Supplies
[li] Drill or pencil (i'll explain later)
[/li][/list]
Now...there are plenty of substitutes that one can use for supplies, but these are the supplies i use. A table mounted scroll saw works a lot better than the breakaway knife, but I'm on a limited dag income. I usually work on a sword over the course of three days or so. I break it down to three stages of build.
Stage One-Preping your cricket bat
Part A-cutting out
The first step is to prep your core. for the purpose of this project I'm going to use kitespar because a lot of people seem to have it available. You want to start by wrapping the entire core in cloth tape. I use the white tape because it's cheap. This is to help the dap bond to the core.
When you finish wrapping the core in tape, you're going to add flags sticking out the entire length of where the blade is to be. To determine where the blade is will depend on how you want your handle and how long your core is. i usually live about 12 fingers or three fists length. this gives me enough for pomel, cross guard, and handle.
Now, these flags...I refer to them as "Tabs." All you do is tear a strip of tape a few inches long, press the center of it to the core, and adhere the two sticky sides of the tape to each other.
When you're done your core will look something like this:
The tabs only need to be the length of the blade, don't do them the entire core.
Now set the core aside.
Your next step is to cut out the "bread" of your sandwich. here's how to get your measurements:
You want the length of the core where the blade will go. in this case it's 20 inches. then you add 1.5 inches for padding. In the case of my blade the three sections of bread are 21.5 inches.
The width will be 4 inches. This may seem like a waste of foam, but I've had so many blades end up not wide enough, so now I do it this way. Blue foam is inexpensive anyway.
Always measure twice and cut once, lest you screw it up and need to waste more foam
There we go. Three layers and a core are done.
Next you need to take your fine point sharpie and draw where the core will go. you want to do this by drawing a line up the exact center of one piece of your bread...do this by carefully measuring and marking the 2inch spot.
Now from this you measure half the width of your core in each direction. Since im using a core with an outer diameter of 1/2 inch, I'll measure 1/4 inch in each direction from my line and mark it at the top and bottom. Now connect the dots and color in the center for good measure.
you should have a line the width and length of your core going down the center of this piece of foam now.
Repeat this step on a second piece of your foam
Good. Now you have two pieces drawn on.
Cut out this darkened section on ONE of the pieces. Do not cut it totally in half. you want there to be a channel, with that 1.5 inch tip still in tact.
Now your basic pieces are all set up and cut.
Part B-Dapping
This is the messy stage. I use a foam brush because it's easier for me, but truthfullly you can use scrap foam. I also like to wear vinyl (not latex) gloves. Dap eats latex.
You want to hang your core from something so that it's not flat on the table. this is important. I use the railing on my back porch on account of it's messy as is. I tie string around where the pomel will be then tape it to the rail. you could also use clamps. they work nice, but again, I'm a discount builder.
Now dap your core, one side of the marked piece of bread, and the piece of bread with the channel cut out of it. make sure you get the inside of the channel
lay these out to dry, and leave them alone for at least twenty minutes. a half hour is better. Don't debate with me on how long to let dap get tacky...if you think you know better that is fine and you can let it dry as long as you like.
Once the dap is tacky you're going to assemble it.
The first step is to put the core to the line drawn on your solid piece. You want to push the core to the line exactly (remember your measured twice?) but you dont want the tabs to touch.
Now push down half the tabs. the other half dont push down. you want them sticking up in the air for now. Truthfully I usually push down more than I leave up.
Now apply the channel layer carefully. This is very tricky. You want to make sure that you do not let the tabs that are in the air stick to it, and at the same time, you also want the pieces to be pressed right against the core so that there is no gap between foam and core.
Put the tabs that are in the air on top of it, while sandwiching the half of the tabs you pressed down to the foam.
Now dap the entire surface area. Reapply dap to the top section of the core that you see, and redap the flags on both side.
Let it dry for 20 minutes or so, then press the flags down to the foam under it so they stick. Now...the entire surface area should be tacky to the touch. This is a crucial step. Apply Cloth tape over this with adhesive side down against the dap. This causes it to stick better, and hold up well. It also reinforces the core well and cuts down on seperation.
When you're finished it will look like this:
Now this is the last step for this section and I think if you've made it so far, you don't need a picture of it. Dap your last bread piece to the tape surface. apply dap to both sides...let sit for half and hour, then press together.
We call this three layer section your "Cricket bat"
Right now what you want to do is make sure the layers are stuck together well. How you do this is up to you. I run my fingers down bow sides of the bat on both sides of the core and rapidly squeeze then release pressure to make sure theyre all together well. You could use something like a rolling pin instead. it makes no difference.
Here's what you should look like at this point more or less. if you measure and cut better than me your edges will line up better. if you dont...it's not the end of the world.
Let your cricket bat sit over night. You're done for today. I highly recomend doing this so that the dap dries significantly. it makes for a nicer sword. if you rush it, it's not my problem if it looks like crap when it's done.
*NOTE* Don't worry if your three layers don't line up perfectly. It's not a huge deal if they dont. this is why they are 4 inches wide. tomorrow you will trim them down.
Time: 2-3 work sessions of a couple hours each.
Skill level: Moderate
I do not claim ownership over this design in any way shape or form. It is a design i have built upon based on things taught to me. There are slight differences in procedure, chronology, and materials used from how others make sandwich swords. I give anyone who wishes to permission to reproduce this tutorial at any time. with or without giving credit, as long as it is not for the purpose of profiting
Supplies
- Core- For my core I use round hollow fiberglass kite spar because I had a length of it in my garage
- Cloth tape- I use cloth athletic tape. Black tape for finishing and white tape inside because its cheaper. The white tape comes in a six pack at Walmart and is located with the ankle and wrist supports
- Cutting utensil- I use breakaway knives. they're cheap and they work well. You can get them at any hardware store. Usually I buy one knife for like .99 cents and then a pack of 3 replacement blades for 2.50. I use all four blades. .
- Dap-I use liquid dap, rather than gel, because i find it's easier to work with. Along with this I sometimes use vinyl medical gloves (not latex..dap eats latex).
- Straight Edge- For this I use a metal yard stick i picked up cheap.
- Counter weight- For counter weight i use metal bar stock cut to size with a hack saw
- Hack saw- for cutting bar stock.
- Foam- there are many to choose from, but since I don't have extra cash right now i'm going to use Blue Foam from Walmart because it's easiest. Plastazote or Eva work well as well.
- Garment leather- I use this for the wrap over the handle so that i have a better grip on it. I procured this by spending 15 dollars on a leather jacket at goodwill, then cut strips as needed. I had enough for tons of projects.
- Foam brush- it makes spreading dap easier
- Sharpie- for marking up your foam
[li] Drill or pencil (i'll explain later)
[/li][/list]
Now...there are plenty of substitutes that one can use for supplies, but these are the supplies i use. A table mounted scroll saw works a lot better than the breakaway knife, but I'm on a limited dag income. I usually work on a sword over the course of three days or so. I break it down to three stages of build.
Stage One-Preping your cricket bat
Part A-cutting out
The first step is to prep your core. for the purpose of this project I'm going to use kitespar because a lot of people seem to have it available. You want to start by wrapping the entire core in cloth tape. I use the white tape because it's cheap. This is to help the dap bond to the core.
When you finish wrapping the core in tape, you're going to add flags sticking out the entire length of where the blade is to be. To determine where the blade is will depend on how you want your handle and how long your core is. i usually live about 12 fingers or three fists length. this gives me enough for pomel, cross guard, and handle.
Now, these flags...I refer to them as "Tabs." All you do is tear a strip of tape a few inches long, press the center of it to the core, and adhere the two sticky sides of the tape to each other.
When you're done your core will look something like this:
The tabs only need to be the length of the blade, don't do them the entire core.
Now set the core aside.
Your next step is to cut out the "bread" of your sandwich. here's how to get your measurements:
You want the length of the core where the blade will go. in this case it's 20 inches. then you add 1.5 inches for padding. In the case of my blade the three sections of bread are 21.5 inches.
The width will be 4 inches. This may seem like a waste of foam, but I've had so many blades end up not wide enough, so now I do it this way. Blue foam is inexpensive anyway.
Always measure twice and cut once, lest you screw it up and need to waste more foam
There we go. Three layers and a core are done.
Next you need to take your fine point sharpie and draw where the core will go. you want to do this by drawing a line up the exact center of one piece of your bread...do this by carefully measuring and marking the 2inch spot.
Now from this you measure half the width of your core in each direction. Since im using a core with an outer diameter of 1/2 inch, I'll measure 1/4 inch in each direction from my line and mark it at the top and bottom. Now connect the dots and color in the center for good measure.
you should have a line the width and length of your core going down the center of this piece of foam now.
Repeat this step on a second piece of your foam
Good. Now you have two pieces drawn on.
Cut out this darkened section on ONE of the pieces. Do not cut it totally in half. you want there to be a channel, with that 1.5 inch tip still in tact.
Now your basic pieces are all set up and cut.
Part B-Dapping
This is the messy stage. I use a foam brush because it's easier for me, but truthfullly you can use scrap foam. I also like to wear vinyl (not latex) gloves. Dap eats latex.
You want to hang your core from something so that it's not flat on the table. this is important. I use the railing on my back porch on account of it's messy as is. I tie string around where the pomel will be then tape it to the rail. you could also use clamps. they work nice, but again, I'm a discount builder.
Now dap your core, one side of the marked piece of bread, and the piece of bread with the channel cut out of it. make sure you get the inside of the channel
lay these out to dry, and leave them alone for at least twenty minutes. a half hour is better. Don't debate with me on how long to let dap get tacky...if you think you know better that is fine and you can let it dry as long as you like.
Once the dap is tacky you're going to assemble it.
The first step is to put the core to the line drawn on your solid piece. You want to push the core to the line exactly (remember your measured twice?) but you dont want the tabs to touch.
Now push down half the tabs. the other half dont push down. you want them sticking up in the air for now. Truthfully I usually push down more than I leave up.
Now apply the channel layer carefully. This is very tricky. You want to make sure that you do not let the tabs that are in the air stick to it, and at the same time, you also want the pieces to be pressed right against the core so that there is no gap between foam and core.
Put the tabs that are in the air on top of it, while sandwiching the half of the tabs you pressed down to the foam.
Now dap the entire surface area. Reapply dap to the top section of the core that you see, and redap the flags on both side.
Let it dry for 20 minutes or so, then press the flags down to the foam under it so they stick. Now...the entire surface area should be tacky to the touch. This is a crucial step. Apply Cloth tape over this with adhesive side down against the dap. This causes it to stick better, and hold up well. It also reinforces the core well and cuts down on seperation.
When you're finished it will look like this:
Now this is the last step for this section and I think if you've made it so far, you don't need a picture of it. Dap your last bread piece to the tape surface. apply dap to both sides...let sit for half and hour, then press together.
We call this three layer section your "Cricket bat"
Right now what you want to do is make sure the layers are stuck together well. How you do this is up to you. I run my fingers down bow sides of the bat on both sides of the core and rapidly squeeze then release pressure to make sure theyre all together well. You could use something like a rolling pin instead. it makes no difference.
Here's what you should look like at this point more or less. if you measure and cut better than me your edges will line up better. if you dont...it's not the end of the world.
Let your cricket bat sit over night. You're done for today. I highly recomend doing this so that the dap dries significantly. it makes for a nicer sword. if you rush it, it's not my problem if it looks like crap when it's done.
*NOTE* Don't worry if your three layers don't line up perfectly. It's not a huge deal if they dont. this is why they are 4 inches wide. tomorrow you will trim them down.